BB Creams 101
So I said I would write a blog about BB creams and I havent forgotten about it. First lets start with what a BB cream is...
A BB Cream is a foundation essentially. Its more dense than a tinted moisturizer with a comparable finish but without the oily-ness. They tend to have better coverage than a tinted moisturizer sans the heavy or cakey feeling of a full coverage foundation. Also, the texture medium is much like that of a Silicon primer in how it fills in fine lines and moderately uneven textures and adds a slight luminescence to the skin like a highlighter. Their ONE FATAL FLAW you ask????
...They usually only come in at most 3 colors per brand. All in the Light toned variety and for most people there isn't a color thats truly suitable. As a makeup artist its easy to solve this problem as we tend to have a plethora of products at our disposable. But how does the average person, after the perfect flawless finish, solve this dilemma?
Same as the Pro's...You mix.
You'll need a few ingredients. If you're in to makeup already you probably already have the essentials. They are as follows...
1. An amazing daytime moisturizer that dries quickly with an initially moist but ultimate satiny finish. The only one Im certain of is the Yonka Creme 93. Experiment with others if you like but this is my go to. Its creamy and moist but dries fast to a fully absorbed satin finish. It will essentially pull all pigment in your blend as close to the surface of your face a possible.
2. An illuminating fluid of the desired shade. Most highlite fluids come in pink, white or gold respectively. Bronzing fluids are also suitable for darker skin tones. I like the two pictured above and also a product I buy from a fellow Artist and colleague Steven, at Palette Cosmetics in Beverly Hills called simply, Illuminating fluid in Pearl.
3. A face primer. Any will do. Use the one you like the most. (this is NOT a mandatory ingredient btw; Use if you need to smooth your skins texture)
4. A densely pigmented liquid concealer in a LONG WEAR formula. This will give you the finish you want and the staying power you need. MAC's pro long wear is fantastic for this and one of the only ones I personally would use. its very smooth, fluffy like silicone, blends easily and dries to a perfect SATIN matte finish. Use in a shade that matches your skin tone. They have a lot of color options; you cant help but find a fantastic match.
This is not an exact science. Based on your skins temperament and oil content you may need to slightly alter these measurements but if you stick the program with the recommended moisturizer and concealer you should be able to use this formula with little to no fine tuning.
To make a one time use amount, take two full pumps of concealer to an equal that amount of illuminating fluid and mix it together. This will give you your pigment base. Add this to a nickel size amount of moisturizer. Mix it thoroughly and you should have enough to cover your face, neck and chest in necessary if you work quickly with your warm hands. If you need the primer add it into the pigment base before adding the moisturizer to break it down enough to make it blendible with the moisturizer.
This is the formula that works for me. I have relatively even skin, with a slight amount of redness, I usually cover my neck and chest as well, and I like my face to have a lighter base to add brozer to so I use the white highlite fluid for myself but use whatever color suits you.
If you need more coverage, add more concealer. If you need more slip, use more primer, if you need more spreading power, add more moisturizer. If you want denser shimmer, add more Highlite fluid and so forth.
BB creams are an amazing product, revolutionary really in the world of foundations. And if you can find a color that matches your face, fantastic! But this little trick worked amazingly for me and ALL of my clients this season who wanted a light, long wear, foundation that leaves no residue and photographs well. Try it and let me know how you like it!
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